Face shape and glasses: which frame to choose
Round, square, oval or heart-shaped face: a starting table for choosing your frame, and when it pays to break the rule.
By OCCHIO
Face shape is a starting point. Not a rule.
“Round face, square frame” is the most common advice, and it works. But in front of the mirror, size, rim thickness and how much you want your glasses to stand out matter too. Here is how to use it without letting it hold you back.
Recognise your face shape in thirty seconds
Stand in front of a mirror with your hair tied back. Look at three widths: forehead, cheekbones and jaw. Then compare the width of your face with its length, from forehead to chin.
If the three widths are similar and your face is as long as it is wide, it is round or square: the angles of the jaw make the difference. If it is longer than it is wide, it is oval or long. If the forehead is the widest part and the chin is narrow, it is heart-shaped.
The starting table
The idea behind it is contrast: an angular frame balances a face with soft contours, a curved frame softens a face with strong lines.
| Face shape | Usually works | Also worth trying |
|---|---|---|
| Round | Rectangular and square, with visible corners | Panto, or a thin metal round |
| Square | Round and oval | Aviator, thin metal profiles |
| Oval | Almost any shape, if the proportions are right | Bold and oversized shapes |
| Heart-shaped | Oval and round, with a light lower rim | Aviator, frames without a lower rim |
| Long | Deeper fronts, square or oversized shapes | Lower bridge, coloured temples |
| Wide cheekbones | Cat-eye and oval, with a strong upper line | Thin round frames |
The linked shapes lead to our optical selections. You will find the same shapes in the sunglasses selection.
Round · Acetate
The circle that softens
On a square face with a strong jaw, a circle softens the lines. Lesca Lunetier’s Corbs is a bold round frame inspired by Le Corbusier, handmade in France.
Measurements 46–27–145 mm: the wide bridge keeps the circle well centred on the eye.
Discover Corbs Blond
Rectangular · Acetate
The corner that adds structure
On a round or oval face, the corners of a rectangle draw a clean line at eye level. Kuboraum’s P9 does it in the glossy black acetate of the MASKE series.
Measurements 49–23–145 mm, handmade in Italy.
Discover P9 Black ShineBefore the shape, the size
The right shape in the wrong size does not work. The frame should reach roughly the temples without going far beyond them, and the bridge should sit well on the nose. Our size guide explains how to read lens width, bridge and temples. If you have a small face, read Glasses for a small face too.
Mask · Acetate
When to break the rule
Sometimes you want the very opposite of balance: glasses that take over the face and become the focus of every look. Kazoku’s Renaissance is a black acetate mask, 55 mm lens width, handmade in Japan.
Many of the designers in the OCCHIO! selection work this way. If you like a frame, try it anyway: you will know at once whether it is a choice or a mistake.
Discover RenaissanceExplore each shape
Square · Round or oval · Cat-eye · Aviator · Oversized
Frequently asked questions
How do I work out my face shape?
Compare the width of your forehead, cheekbones and jaw, then the width of your face with its length. A front photo with your hair tied back helps.
Is there a frame that suits everyone?
No, but soft, medium-sized shapes such as oval or panto are the easiest to wear on different faces.
Can I get advice?
Yes. At the OCCHIO! boutique in Crema you can try several shapes side by side. Online, you can write to us on WhatsApp.